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The Old China Hand

This is a pub recommendation and it was added on Friday July 24, 2009 by John Keane. permanent url

The Old China Hand

The Old China Hand. I got the image from www.classiccitybrew.com, so I guess it's theirs, not mine.

For some reason that I’ve never been able to fathom, this pub is never busy. It never gets a bad review and yet Clerkenwell continues, bizarrely, to shun it.

It’s gone through a few changes of identity over the years. Originally a friendly, Irish boozer, O’Hanlon’s, it became The Old China Hand, serving ales and dim sum to a discerning local crowd. Temporarily, the pub became The Old Gringo, selling Brazilian and Mexican fare, but reverted quickly to its Asian format.

This pub has everything. Good food, fantastic staff, and a varied drinks menu – when we were there, they had Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Vedett Blond, and Luscombe cider on the fixed taps, with a couple of real ales on guest. Behind the bar resides an exotic selection of bottled beers, including Australia’s Cooper’s ales and Quilmes’ Argentine lager. You won’t have trouble finding a wine or spirit to sup either.

So why is it always empty?

I’m not really sure. Perhaps it’s the location, right by the Rosebery Avenue traffic (though the Wilmington Arms seems to cope), perhaps it’s too far from the seclusion of Exmouth Market (though, again, the Wilmington Arms seems to cope). It makes no sense. This is a great pub, with good food, friendly staff, and superb drinks. They’ll even let you reserve an area of the bar, or the whole place, for a party at no extra page. But I do know it’s not for everyone – my ex could never quite get it, but she couldn’t explain why.

I love it, though. Perhaps that’s why she’s my ex.

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